But, what I always notice is that every daytime that I am there, I'd see everyone crowd around in one particular section of the street to take a picture of the mural called "Little Children on a Bicycle".
The most important tourist attraction in Penang right after Char Koay Teow (Fried Noodles)
Everyone comes to take a picture with that one iconic mural
I understand that the mural is iconic and a must see, however there are cooler things to see in Armenian Street. A shame really, not many know. So, I'm here to give you places in Armenian Street you should definitely stop by next time you are there.
Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple (Tua Pek Kong Temple)
To understand the significance of this place, you need to understand how kongsis work in British Penang. Now, Penang was a popular destination for Chinese migrants seeking employment. But after a Chinaman arrives in Penang, there were no employment centers or job advertisements. He had to go find his kinsman/clansman (which most of the time had the same surname). Well then, these kongsi were the community centers for each of these clans. This was the place ceremonies were performed, the dead were worshiped, and the clansman were gathered. So the Chinaman just had to go to his respective kongsi and ask for jobs.
Very often, these kongsis have businesses ran by individual clansmen or have business run by the collective effort of multiple clansmen. Nevertheless, that meant jobs were plentiful for the newly arrived Chinaman. He could stay at the kongsi building until he has enough money for his own accommodation.
To understand the significance of this place, you need to understand how kongsis work in British Penang. Now, Penang was a popular destination for Chinese migrants seeking employment. But after a Chinaman arrives in Penang, there were no employment centers or job advertisements. He had to go find his kinsman/clansman (which most of the time had the same surname). Well then, these kongsi were the community centers for each of these clans. This was the place ceremonies were performed, the dead were worshiped, and the clansman were gathered. So the Chinaman just had to go to his respective kongsi and ask for jobs.
Very often, these kongsis have businesses ran by individual clansmen or have business run by the collective effort of multiple clansmen. Nevertheless, that meant jobs were plentiful for the newly arrived Chinaman. He could stay at the kongsi building until he has enough money for his own accommodation.
What seems like a perfect arrangement has its shortcomings. The newly arrived Chinaman was now under the protection of a kongsi. Being this far away from home, the kongsi was now his family and he was willing to sacrifice his life to protect the kongsi. In essence, the kongsi now had men willing to fight for it and thus acted more like a criminal organization (this is debatable) away from the eyes of the British officers. They have become secret societies.
Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple was the headquarters of Kien Teik Tong, a locally created secret society. Kien Teik Tong is not one single kongsi but a combination of kongsis banded together. This makes them one of the more powerful ones in Penang.
Khoo Kongsi and Cheah Kongsi's Temple can be found in Armenian Street too
But the Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple is kinda secluded. I think its seclusion fits well as a Secret Society's headquarters. But here is how you find it:
Walk away from the mural and a little deeper into Armenian Street
On your left you will see a small gate
And you have found it!
But, Kean Teik was not alone. Often they came into conflict with other secret societies. I mean, who likes it when other people come into your turf. Their main enemy is the Ghee Hin Society. However, this rivalry is not only confined to the Chinese only. To make sure they had the upper hand, each secret society went out to find allies, powerful and influential Indian and Malay leaders started taking sides.
Secret Society Factions in general
So as you can see, the Kean Teik got the support of Hai San secret society (Hai San are more active in the Perak rivalry, but that is another tale.) and also the Malay and Indian leaders from Acheh Street which is actually just side by side with Armenian Street.
So when you are standing in Armenian Street, you are standing in the heart of one of the most powerful underground organization Penang has ever known!
This rivalry was no small conflict. In 1867, both the Red Flag and the White Flag went into open fighting. This fighting was so destructive, Georgetown became a war zone for 9 days until reinforcement from Singapore and India came to quell it.
British forces are very limited to stop the riot. The people had to take arms and protect themselves
So, next time you are in Armenian Street, stop by the kongsis and the Hock Teik Cheng Sin Temple, admire the Chinese communal spirit, mercantile success and the evil that follows it.
After the riots, the British had banned Secret Societies. However, rumor has it "The Red Flag still lives".
Next time I will write about Armenian Street's contribution to the fall of the nighty Qing Dynasty in China
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